Sunday, 3 August 2025

Istana Woodneuk - A legacy worth celebrating.

Since news broke about the agreement between the Singapore government and Tunku Ismail Sultan Ibrahim, the Regent of Johor, regarding a land swap near the Singapore Botanic Gardens, I have led nearly 250 participants to step foot into this increasingly forgotten palace ground. My purpose is clear: to share with the public the illustrious history behind these ruins, and to highlight the importance of preserving this priceless heritage.

Under the agreement, Tunku Ismail will cede 13 hectares of his land to the government, while the government will in return transfer 8.5 hectares of state-owned land to him. This development has renewed public interest in Istana Woodneuk, a tangible reminder that Singapore’s hidden heritage still deserves to be known, understood, and safeguarded for future generations.
Once upon a time, this palace served as the private residence of Sultan Abu Bakar of Johor. But today, it stands as a fading memory, weathered by time, overtaken by nature, and nearly forgotten.
Even so, Istana Woodneuk holds immense value in terms of culture, history, and architecture. It is part of the nation’s heritage that rightly deserves preservation. Amid Singapore’s rapid development, efforts to protect such heritage sites are not only important, they must be made a priority.




The Legacy of Istana Woodneuk

Preserving historic sites like Istana Woodneuk is not just about protecting old buildings,  it is about safeguarding the identity and origins of a nation for future generations. Built in the 19th century, the complex history of Istana Woodneuk includes multiple reconstructions and changes in ownership. Located on 36 acres of land within Tyersall Park, it was originally owned by an English trader, Captain John Dill Ross, before being sold to Sultan Abu Bakar in 1860.

Maharaja Abu Bakar was the grandson of Temenggong Abdul Rahman, one of the signatories of the Treaty of Friendship alongside Sultan Hussein and Sir Stamford Raffles. Around the same time, Abu Bakar also purchased another property with an existing house from an English lawyer named William Napier. When he married Wong Ah Gew in 1885, he suggested they live in Woodneuk, as he was planning to build a new palace on the site of Napier's former house. This new palace would be named Istana Tyersall and built specially for his wife. Wong Ah Gew later embraced Islam and took the name Sultanah Fatimah.

Sadly, Sultanah Fatimah passed away in 1891, a year before Istana Tyersall was completed in 1892. The palace went on to become a grand residence for Sultan Abu Bakar and was later inhabited by his fourth wife, Sultanah Khadijah Khahum.

During Singapore's time as the administrative hub of the Straits Settlements, many prominent British officials resided in the city. Abu Bakar played a key role in this growing port town — managing Malay affairs and acting as a key intermediary between the British administration and other Malay rulers across the region. Istana Tyersall served as a royal residence, while Istana Woodneuk was used as a social and leisure retreat.

Lessons from Istana Woodneuk

My journey into uncovering Singapore’s forgotten palaces began in 2015 when I first stepped foot on the ruins of Istana Woodneuk. That visit sparked a deep curiosity about the hidden history behind the site. Since then, I have committed to researching Singapore’s royal residences, including Istana Tyersall, Istana Kampong Glam, and Istana Telok Blangah.

This effort involved extensive research using historical maps, colonial records, and archival documents, which I then matched against the modern landscape through fieldwork, oral interviews, and family stories. As a descendant of Bugis-Malay heritage, this has also been a personal journey to reconnect with my roots and identity.

The story of Woodneuk made me realise that heritage preservation isn’t just about structures, it’s about memories, dignity, and cultural identity. Sites like this teach us about the importance of unity, cross-cultural collaboration, and resilience through changing times.

I didn’t want this knowledge to stay locked in academic circles. That’s why I began organising heritage walks and storytelling sessions to help the public experience the value of this vanishing history. What’s been heartwarming is how many participants have come forward to share their own personal stories, including some who once lived or worked near Istana Woodneuk.

History is not just about the past. It’s about what we choose to remember and how we pass it on.

Don’t Let Woodneuk Be Forgotten

Istana Woodneuk is a heritage site that deserves to be celebrated, not neglected. It holds powerful lessons about Singapore’s identity, history, and cultural richness. By preserving what remains of its glory, Singapore also protects the diversity and depth of its own historical narrative.

It is time for the government, the community, and the wider public to join hands in shining a light once more on Istana Woodneuk. Through conservation, research, and education, Woodneuk can be brought back to life in our collective memory,  serving as an inspiration for a more inclusive and culturally grounded Singapore. Let’s not allow Woodneuk to remain a silent tale hidden in the city’s overgrowth. It deserves a rightful place in our hearts and our national story.

The heritage tours I regularly host do not only focus on Istana Woodneuk. They also paint a broader picture of Singapore’s history, one that didn’t begin in 1819 or even 1299, but goes further back to the days of maritime networks and ancient seafaring.

Hope for the Future

If the proposed land exchange goes through, I sincerely hope that the Singapore government and the National Heritage Board will consider meaningful steps to recognise and preserve the historical significance of Istana Woodneuk and its surrounding grounds.

It’s possible the original structure may have to be demolished due to its severe deterioration. If so, I propose that a faithful reconstruction of Istana Woodneuk be considered, reflecting its original architectural style. More importantly, I hope the new structure will include a dedicated heritage space that tells the story of the Malay royal family, the legacy of Istana Tyersall, and the many layers of Singapore’s rich history.

This is not just about honouring the past, it’s an opportunity to create a living space where history is remembered, experienced, and passed on to future generations.

Thank you Norman Sawi of Berita Harian, Singapore Press Holdings in granting me to contribute this article. Thank you Cheryl Tay for your hand in the group photo shot. Thank you to all my friends whom have walked with me to preserve this national heritage.


 

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