Sukadana’s Warm Welcome and the Living Routes of Bugis Trade

My first taste of Kalimantan was in 1997, when I was sent to survey a tender barge at the Mahakam Delta, Balikpapan. I kept returning until around 2009, Samarinda, Banjarmasin, and elsewhere. Across Borneo I’ve worked in Miri, Bintulu, Lutong, Kuching in Sarawak, Kota Kinabalu, Labuan, and Brunei, mostly work, except Brunei where many of our menfolk “pay respects” in Temburong, if you know what I mean. Last year I spoke on Bugis trade in Pontianak; this year the invitation was to Sukadana. I remember when SilkAir flew direct to Pontianak, now it’s via Jakarta.

Sukadana sits on the south of Kalimantan. We ran up Sungai Kapuas in a 45-knot speedboat, normally five to six hours; the slow boat takes more than a day. It can take longer if either of the two big outboards clips a floating log or gets fouled by weeds, old fishing nets, or river garbage. 

The ride was scenic all the way, with a memorable lunch stop at Kubu. We stayed at Hotel Mahkota and from there plunged into cultural events, seminars, and warm social gatherings.

There was even karaoke at Pantai Datok…great fun. A friend in SG texted me after seeing my photos on Facebook: “Wahhh Tuah, you skipped our SG60 but became a guest at Indonesia’s Independence Day!” I was honoured to be invited by the Bupati (Governer) of Kayong Utara to witness the Hari Ulang Tahun ke-80.

The seminar went well. I enjoyed my airtime, sharing the trade networks linking Singapore, Sukadana, and the wider Nusantara. Many friends were the same good people from last year’s event in Sambas, and each session brought fresh insight, untold kingdoms, social cohesion, histories, anthropologies.

 My thanks to Mr. Natsir for organising and for inviting my wife and me, and to Mr. Jumadi Gading for being an excellent host. May Indonesia remain blessed and prosperous for its people, for the region, and for the world.

Assalamaualikum 

Pengalaman pertama saya di Kalimantan ialah pada tahun 1997, ketika saya ditugaskan meninjau sebuah Tender-Barge di Delta Mahakam, Balikpapan. Saya terus berulang-alik hingga sekitar 2009, ke Samarinda, Banjarmasin dan lain-lain. Di seluruh Borneo saya pernah bekerja di Miri, Bintulu, Lutong, Kuching di Sarawak, Kota Kinabalu, Labuan dan Brunei, kebanyakannya urusan kerja; kecuali Brunei, tempat ramai lelaki kita “bayar niat” di Temburong, kalau you faham maksud saya. 

Tahun lalu saya berkongsi tentang perdagangan Bugis di Pontianak; tahun ini pula jemputan ke Sukadana. Saya masih ingat ketika SilkAir terbang terus ke Pontianak; kini perlu melalui Jakarta.

Sukadana terletak di selatan Kalimantan. Kami menyusuri Sungai Kapuas dengan bot laju 45 knot, biasanya lima hingga enam jam; bot perlahan mengambil masa lebih daripada sehari. Perjalanan boleh menjadi lebih lama jika salah satu daripada dua enjin outboard terlanggar kayu hanyut atau tersangkut rumpai, jaring lama, atau sampah sungai.

 Pemandangannya indah sepanjang laluan, dengan persinggahan makan tengah hari yang mengesankan di Kubu. Kami menginap di Hotel Mahkota dan dari situ tenggelam dalam acara budaya, seminar dan pertemuan sosial yang mesra. Malah ada sesi karaoke di Pantai Datok, memang seronok. 

Seorang rakan di SG mengirim mesej selepas melihat foto di Facebook: “Wahhh Tuah, kamu tak hadir SG60 kita tetapi jadi tetamu pada Hari Kemerdekaan Indonesia!” Saya berasa sangat dihormati apabila dijemput oleh Bupati (ketua daerah) Kayong Utara untuk menyaksikan Hari Ulang Tahun ke-80.

Seminar berlangsung dengan baik. Saya benar-benar menikmati masa di pentas, berkongsi tentang jaringan perdagangan yang menghubungkan Singapura, Sukadana dan Nusantara yang lebih luas. Ramai rakan ialah orang baik yang sama dari acara tahun lalu di Sambas, dan setiap sesi membawa ilmu pembuka minda, tentang kerajaan-kerajaan yang jarang diceritakan, jalinan sosial, sejarah dan antropologi. 

Terima kasih kepada Encik Natsir kerana menganjurkan serta menjemput saya dan isteri, dan kepada Encik Jumadi Gading yang menjadi tuan rumah dengan layanan yang baik. Semoga Indonesia sentiasa diberkati dan makmur demi rakyatnya, rantau ini dan dunia.

Honorable Gifts and Appreciations from the Governor and friends.

 

 

 In celebration of National Day, I continued my long-standing tradition of leading a heritage walk for friends and members of the public, a journey through Singapore’s remarkable evolution, from the bustling age of sail to the kampong-spirit we shared during the trials of Covid.

The walk began at Fort Canning MRT station, where a facade replica of Panggong Negara stood proudly, screaming “Fort Canning!” greeted us. Standing there, I couldn’t resist sharing my personal memories of the Van Cleef Aquarium, once beloved landmarks that still hold a nostalgic feel in my heart. I also used to swim regularly at River Valley Swimming pool during my Poly days too!

From that starting point, our steps followed the echoes of history;  from the events in Sejarah Melayu to Raffles, through the trials of the Second World War, the winds of decolonization, moments of unrest, and the visionary leadership of Mr Lee Kuan Yew... leading to the milestones that shaped our independence and the modern nation we take pride in today. It was more than just a walk; it was a celebration of heritage, resilience, and the Singapore spirit. 

Thank you Zaili Mohama Din for the photos. Thank you to everyone who joined and made this National Day walk both memorable and meaningful.

Happy National Day friends. 

Happy National Day everyone. 

Happy National Day Singapore. 

Majulah Singapura!

Ghosts of the Arts House 

“At night, the river hushes and this old house keeps its whispers. Built in 1827 as a residence but used as a courthouse, these rooms once heard verdicts, oaths and the scrape of boots on tiled floors. Some staff swear they’ve felt a sudden chill along the corridor by the old chamber door, or faint footsteps after closing, perhaps only the building settling, perhaps not.

I have always felt a deep connection whenever I speak about the Arts House. Its history is inseparable from the early story of modern Singapore, taking me back to the time of Temenggong Abdul Rahman.

Around 1812, Temenggong Abdul Rahman established his first Istana along the Singapore River. From there, he managed his trading activities, working closely with Bugis, orang laut, and the Chinese communities who lived along the riverbanks. These communities along the Singapore River helped forge local and regional maritime trade, laying the economic foundations of Singapore’s growth.

Temenggong Abdul Rahman remained there until the arrival of Stamford Raffles on 28 January 1819. When Raffles landed, he stepped ashore at the jetty right in front of the Istana. Mistaking Temenggong Abdul Rahman for the Sultan of Singapore, Raffles was corrected: the Temenggong explained that he was not the Sultan, and that the rightful heir was Sultan Hussein.

On 6 February 1819, a treaty of friendship was signed between Raffles, Sultan Hussein, and Temenggong Abdul Rahman, marking a pivotal moment in Singapore’s history. Over time, the site where the Istana once stood came into Raffles’ possession. The plaque outside the Arts House still records that Raffles purchased the land from Temenggong Abdul Rahman and converted it into the Assembly House. The Temenggong relocated to Telok Blangah, where the Bugis settlement was based.

The Arts House today, then the Old Parliament House had witnessed many defining moments in Singapore’s political journey. Here, Chief Minister David Marshall pressed for internal self-government, though his 1956 Merdeka Mission to London failed and he resigned. In 1957, his successor Lim Yew Hock led successful negotiations in London that produced the State of Singapore Constitution (1958) and paved the way for internal self-government in 1959. The Legislative Assembly that met in this building was central to the local debates surrounding these changes.

It was also here that Singapore’s national symbols were unveiled: the national flag, the pledge, and the national anthem Majulah Singapura. From 1955 to 1999, the building now called The Arts House served as Singapore’s legislature, first the Legislative Assembly, then Parliament before the move to the new Parliament House.

For me, the Arts House is not just a building, it is a living monument. Standing there, you are standing where history unfolded; where decisions were made that shaped Singapore into the independent nation it is today. Anyone who knows its story, I believe, will feel the same deep pride I do each time they walk through its doors.

Happy National Day Singapore

9th August 2025

 

Istana Woodneuk - A legacy worth celebrating.

Since news broke about the agreement between the Singapore government and Tunku Ismail Sultan Ibrahim, the Regent of Johor, regarding a land swap near the Singapore Botanic Gardens, I have led nearly 250 participants to step foot into this increasingly forgotten palace ground. My purpose is clear: to share with the public the illustrious history behind these ruins, and to highlight the importance of preserving this priceless heritage.

Under the agreement, Tunku Ismail will cede 13 hectares of his land to the government, while the government will in return transfer 8.5 hectares of state-owned land to him. This development has renewed public interest in Istana Woodneuk, a tangible reminder that Singapore’s hidden heritage still deserves to be known, understood, and safeguarded for future generations.

Once upon a time, this palace served as the private residence of Sultan Abu Bakar of Johor. But today, it stands as a fading memory, weathered by time, overtaken by nature, and nearly forgotten.

Even so, Istana Woodneuk holds immense value in terms of culture, history, and architecture. It is part of the nation’s heritage that rightly deserves preservation. Amid Singapore’s rapid development, efforts to protect such heritage sites are not only important, they must be made a priority.

The Legacy of Istana Woodneuk

Preserving historic sites like Istana Woodneuk is not just about protecting old buildings,  it is about safeguarding the identity and origins of a nation for future generations. Built in the 19th century, the complex history of Istana Woodneuk includes multiple reconstructions and changes in ownership. Located on 36 acres of land within Tyersall Park, it was originally owned by an English trader, Captain John Dill Ross, before being sold to Sultan Abu Bakar in 1860.

Maharaja Abu Bakar was the grandson of Temenggong Abdul Rahman, one of the signatories of the Treaty of Friendship alongside Sultan Hussein and Sir Stamford Raffles. Around the same time, Abu Bakar also purchased another property with an existing house from an English lawyer named William Napier. When he married Wong Ah Gew in 1885, he suggested they live in Woodneuk, as he was planning to build a new palace on the site of Napier's former house. This new palace would be named Istana Tyersall and built specially for his wife. Wong Ah Gew later embraced Islam and took the name Sultanah Fatimah.

Sadly, Sultanah Fatimah passed away in 1891, a year before Istana Tyersall was completed in 1892. The palace went on to become a grand residence for Sultan Abu Bakar and was later inhabited by his fourth wife, Sultanah Khadijah Khahum.

During Singapore's time as the administrative hub of the Straits Settlements, many prominent British officials resided in the city. Abu Bakar played a key role in this growing port town — managing Malay affairs and acting as a key intermediary between the British administration and other Malay rulers across the region. Istana Tyersall served as a royal residence, while Istana Woodneuk was used as a social and leisure retreat.

Lessons from Istana Woodneuk

My journey into uncovering Singapore’s forgotten palaces began in 2015 when I first stepped foot on the ruins of Istana Woodneuk. That visit sparked a deep curiosity about the hidden history behind the site. Since then, I have committed to researching Singapore’s royal residences, including Istana Tyersall, Istana Kampong Glam, and Istana Telok Blangah.

This effort involved extensive research using historical maps, colonial records, and archival documents, which I then matched against the modern landscape through fieldwork, oral interviews, and family stories. As a descendant of Bugis-Malay heritage, this has also been a personal journey to reconnect with my roots and identity.

The story of Woodneuk made me realise that heritage preservation isn’t just about structures, it’s about memories, dignity, and cultural identity. Sites like this teach us about the importance of unity, cross-cultural collaboration, and resilience through changing times.

I didn’t want this knowledge to stay locked in academic circles. That’s why I began organising heritage walks and storytelling sessions to help the public experience the value of this vanishing history. What’s been heartwarming is how many participants have come forward to share their own personal stories, including some who once lived or worked near Istana Woodneuk.

History is not just about the past. It’s about what we choose to remember and how we pass it on.

Don’t Let Woodneuk Be Forgotten

Istana Woodneuk is a heritage site that deserves to be celebrated, not neglected. It holds powerful lessons about Singapore’s identity, history, and cultural richness. By preserving what remains of its glory, Singapore also protects the diversity and depth of its own historical narrative.

It is time for the government, the community, and the wider public to join hands in shining a light once more on Istana Woodneuk. Through conservation, research, and education, Woodneuk can be brought back to life in our collective memory,  serving as an inspiration for a more inclusive and culturally grounded Singapore. Let’s not allow Woodneuk to remain a silent tale hidden in the city’s overgrowth. It deserves a rightful place in our hearts and our national story.

The heritage tours I regularly host do not only focus on Istana Woodneuk. They also paint a broader picture of Singapore’s history, one that didn’t begin in 1819 or even 1299, but goes further back to the days of maritime networks and ancient seafaring.

Hope for the Future

If the proposed land exchange goes through, I sincerely hope that the Singapore government and the National Heritage Board will consider meaningful steps to recognise and preserve the historical significance of Istana Woodneuk and its surrounding grounds.

It’s possible the original structure may have to be demolished due to its severe deterioration. If so, I propose that a faithful reconstruction of Istana Woodneuk be considered, reflecting its original architectural style. More importantly, I hope the new structure will include a dedicated heritage space that tells the story of the Malay royal family, the legacy of Istana Tyersall, and the many layers of Singapore’s rich history.

This is not just about honouring the past, it’s an opportunity to create a living space where history is remembered, experienced, and passed on to future generations.

Thank you Norman Sawi of Berita Harian, Singapore Press Holdings in granting me to contribute this article. Thank you Cheryl Tay for your hand in the group photo shot. Thank you to all my friends whom have walked with me to preserve this national heritage.

 

Racial Harmony Day by Kelvin Kai

每年的7月21日，我们常常看到学生们自豪地穿上色彩缤纷的传统服装，如华人旗袍、马来卡巴雅、印度纱丽、欧亚族和其他少数民族的文化服饰，热情地庆祝种族和谐日。

今天，布莱德岭和谐圈和职总保健活跃乐龄中心(实龙岗)为居民们举办“Harmony Talk & Walk”活动。 配合新加坡种族和谐日，许多参加者也穿着不同种族的服装。

来自新加坡族谱学会(Genealogy Society Singapore)的Sarafian Salleh先生为我们带来了题为“回忆甘榜岁月-团结的故事(Kampung Days Remembered - Tales of Togetherness)”的讲座，并带领我们步行到比达达里公园，同时，向参与者讲述比达达里的过去。

种族和谐日是一个重要的节日，它提醒我们不同种族之间团结和相互尊重的重要性。 让我们共同努力，通过对他人的差异保持开放和尊重，我们可以为每个人创造一个更加和谐包容的社会和受欢迎的环境。

Mr Kelvin Kai with Sarafian Salleh

Every July 21, we often see school students proudly donning colourful traditional costumes such as the Chinese cheongsam, Malay kebaya, Indian sari, Eurasian and other ethnic minority cultural attire to enthusiastically celebrate Racial Harmony Day.

Today, Braddell Heights Harmony Circle and NTUC Health Active Ageing Centre (Serangoon) held a "Harmony Talk & Walk" for residents. In conjunction with Singapore Racial Harmony Day, many participants also wore costumes of different races.

Mr Sarafian Salleh (Tuah Bugis)  from Genealogy Society Singapore gave us a talk titled "Kampung Days Remembered - Tales of Togetherness" and led us on a walk to Bidadari Park, while telling participants about Bidadari's past.

Racial Harmony Day is an important festival that reminds us of the importance of unity and mutual respect among different races. Let us work together to create a more harmonious and inclusive society and a welcoming environment for everyone by being open and respectful of the differences of others.

By Kelvin Kai

Racial Harmony Singapore is observed on 21 July every year, with most activities organized by schools and grassroot organizations, including religious groups. 

I was invited to share with friends from Braddell Heights Harmony Circle and NTUC Health Active Ageing Centre (Serangoon) stories of how racial harmony was lived out during my younger days in a Teochew village 'Lak Kow Chok'. After the talk, we explored Bidadari Estate, a place rich with history, from the old Sang Nila Utama School to the legacy behind Bartley. I truly enjoyed the experience.

Racial Harmony is vital in Singapore for maintaining peace, unity, and social cohesion in our diverse society. It fosters mutual respect, reduces conflict, and strengthens our national identity. With people of different races living and working closely together, harmony ensures stability, trust, and progress for a resilient and inclusive nation.

Feels honoured to have our Guest of Honor, Mr Seah Kian Peng with us today for the event.

SG Heritage Activist and a secret palace Istana Woodneuk 歷史保護積極分子與一座被遺棄的...

3380 views 7 Jul 2025 #QuietStrength #SG60 #Singapore #QuietStrength #Singapore #history #SG60 Sarafian doesn't tire of sharing unknown gems about Singapore's history - because he wants you to protect our heritage too 分享新加坡多姿多彩但鮮為人知的歷史，是 Sarafian 的使命 Find Sarafian here: / tuahbugis 💗 SUPPORT US » https://coff.ee/quietstrength 📸 FOLLOW » instagram.com/storywisepictures

Untold histories of Istana Woodneuk

When Sir Stamford Raffles said Singapore was just a small fishing village, people back then just accepted it. The history we learnt in school was so flat and boring, I failed my history lessons. I’ve always been a logical person. Memorising stories without any real, physical things to see just didn’t work for me. That was my weakness in humanities. But I was good with numbers, and that’s how I became an engineer.

Ironically, my search for my roots brought me back to history. This journey led me to many Istanas and hidden heritage places in Singapore. Today, I celebrate history in my own way, by sharing why it’s so important to not just appreciate our past, but to use whatever tools we have to protect and keep Singapore’s stories alive for the future.

I started off by sharing the history of our nation, from when we were probably marked by Ptolemy as ‘Sabana Emporio’ all the way to stories about Sungai Bras Basah and how Orchard Road developed. I talked about land ownership too from the ‘drain-pans’ of Stamford Canal where Sungai Bras Basah begins, to the land William Napier owned before passing it on to Maharaja Abu Bakar. His descendants still hold on to that land today!

The idea behind these tour stories today is not just about Istana Woodneuk, but about the bigger picture of Singapore’s history. The stories that didn’t just start in 1819 or 1299, but go way back to the age of sail.

Trust me, if there was no land swap idea between Tengku Ismail Idris & SLA this year, this tour wouldn’t be half as interesting as what you see in these photos. Like I have said, history can be dry on paper,  but when you stand on the actual ground, it’s like the stories come alive. 

My trip with Temasek Rural Explorer Enthusiast.

 

Rail Corridor 22km Heritage Walk:  28th June 2025

Today we completed our Half Marathon Heritage Hike along the Green Corridor. The weather was excellent, and we were even greeted at the endpoint with a refreshing light drizzle, a perfect way to end our journey. Congratulations to everyone who joined us! More than just a park, the Rail Corridor is a living reminder of Singapore’s colonial past and its growth as a regional transport hub. The former Tanjong Pagar Railway Station is now a National Monument, and Bukit Timah Railway Station has been restored as a heritage node for all to enjoy.

On this walk, we rediscovered the deep-rooted history behind the Rail Corridor, once the artery of Singapore’s early development. We learned about the diverse communities that lived along the tracks, where a multi-racial spirit was shaped by the railway’s growth. We also came to appreciate the unique flora and fauna that have evolved alongside this historic line since 1902, forming an ecosystem all its own.

Some participants had to leave early due to unforeseen circumstances, but taking that first step and showing up already makes you a finisher in spirit. Thank you for sharing your stories with me along the way, these memories and anecdotes will continue to grow with every walk, and I will always pass them on to the next group, keeping alive the many untold stories of the Railway Corridor.

Early Railway History:

Originally part of the Federated Malay States Railways (FMSR), Singapore’s railway line was completed in 1903, connecting Singapore to Johor Bahru. The iconic Tanjong Pagar Railway Station opened in 1932, replacing the earlier Tank Road Station and becoming a key gateway for goods and people.

End of an Era:

In 2011, the railway line ceased operations, and the land was returned to Singapore. The last train departed from Tanjong Pagar on 30 June 2011, marking the close of a significant chapter in the nation’s transport history.

Transformation into a Corridor:

Today, the Rail Corridor is a continuous green space stretching from Woodlands in the north to Tanjong Pagar in the south. It has become a beloved trail for walking, hiking, and cycling, with ongoing enhancements to preserve its heritage and natural beauty.

Photo Credit: https://www.linkedin.com/pulse/tanjong-pagar-ktm-trains-journey-past-sachinder-mohan-sharma/

Future Plans: The Rail Corridor is envisioned as a place where communities can come together, forge new memories, and stay connected to both nature and the stories of our shared past.

A special thank you to Zaili Mohama Din for capturing all our moments so beautifully and framing these wonderful group memories. Our next, the ninth Green Corridor Walk will be held in November, so for those who missed this one, we hope to see you then!

#GreenCorridorSG #RailCorridorSG #SingaporeRailway #WalkTheRailCorridor #SingaporeHeritage #RailwayHeritage #OurRailwayStories #UntoldStoriesSG #HiddenHistoriesSG #PreserveOurHeritage #NatureInTheCity #UrbanWildlifeSG #GreenTrailsSG #ExploreSGNature #HeritageWalkSG #WalkWithNatureSG

 

We are now standing at the front porch of the carriage way of Istana Woodneuk—a place that once bore witness to the arrival of dignitaries, diplomats, and honoured guests from across the region. This doorway, though weathered by time, likely saw the ceremonial entry of Malay rulers, British officials, and esteemed visitors who came to pay respect to the Sultan of Johor during the palace’s golden era.

In its heyday, this very entrance would have echoed with the sounds of horses and carriages arriving, the rustle of royal attire, and the quiet formality of diplomatic exchanges. It was more than just a threshold, it was a portal into the world of Johor’s royal diplomacy and prestige, situated right here on Singaporean soil. Standing here, we are reminded of the palace’s once-vibrant role as a political and cultural bridge between the Johor sultanate and the colonial powers, as well as with other Malay and regional rulers.

Though silence now surrounds us, the memory of those footsteps, greetings, and royal ceremonies still lingers in the atmosphere, waiting to be remembered, honoured, and retold.

Can anyone still remember the story about the motifs of the ventilators above our heads? 

 

 #crazyrichasians #sultanjohor #Istana

I was utterly surprised when I came across few article about the land swap between Singapore and the Sultan of Johor, particularly because it made no mention at all of Istana Woodneuk. Here lies a forgotten palace, nestled in the heart of Tyersall, with deep historical ties to the Temenggongs of Singapore, the very lineage that once shaped the early political and social fabric of this island.

Istana Woodneuk wasn’t just an old building, it was a royal residence, a cultural marker, and a silent witness to our shared Malay-Johor heritage. It stood as a symbol of status, diplomacy, and wealth during the colonial era. One could even argue that the Temenggongs and their descendants were among the original “Crazy Rich Asians,” long before the term became popularised in modern fiction.

Yet, in official narratives and transactions, such heritage is often overlooked, perhaps erased quietly by development, bureaucracy, and time. It raises important questions: What parts of our past are we choosing to remember, and which are we letting slip away?

#bangsajohor #Istana #istanawoodneuk #URA #LandSwap #crazyrichasians #sultanjohor

 

Once upon a time, long before Bugis Street became the retail maze we know today, it was part of a thriving maritime world shaped by the seafaring Bugis people—traders, navigators, and master diplomats of the Nusantara. These were men from Sulawesi, especially Makassar, who sailed down in fleets of wooden prau, anchoring off Singapore’s shores to trade in spices, silk, and forest products with the Chinese, Arabs, Indians, Europeans, Orang Laut and other indigenous communities. 

The Bugis people were often misunderstood as violent largely due to colonial narratives shaped by European powers like the Dutch and later the British. These powers saw the Bugis not just as traders, but as formidable competitors who held deep influence over the maritime trade routes of the Malay Archipelago. The Bugis were bold, independent, and fiercely protective of their trade networks and allies, including many indigenous communities.

Their influence was vast—they controlled key parts of the spice route, not through conquest, but through deep regional networks built on trust and commerce. But when the Dutch East India Company arrived, hungry for monopoly, they saw these proud maritime traders as a threat. To justify their aggression, they branded the Bugis as pirates. Yet in truth, it was never piracy—it was power. Nutmeg, after all, was worth more than gold, and the Bugis weren’t about to give it up without a fight. 

That legacy, bold and misunderstood, still lingers beneath the concrete of Bugis Street today, if only we take the time to listen. I am more than happy to share with you that story.