Remembrance Day 🇸🇬

Remembrance Day is observed on 11 November each year to honour the soldiers and civilians who lost their lives in war and armed conflict, especially those who fought in World War I. The date marks the Armistice signed on 11 November 1918, which ended the fighting at the 11th hour of the 11th day of the 11th month. On this day, many around the world pause for a two-minute silence to reflect on these sacrifices.

Kranji War Memorial

Started our day bright and early at 6.30am.

It was a solemn occasion as we brought a busload of our Sembawang West residents to the Kranji War Memorial for the Remembrance Sunday Service this morning. 

Friends of Woodland Galaxy

This meaningful visit reminded us of the bravery and sacrifices of our forefathers who fought courageously against the Japanese occupation during World War II.

After the service, we continued our Heritage Trail to Reflections at Bukit Chandu, where we learned about the valiant defence during the Battle of Pasir Panjang — and the unwavering courage of Lt. Adnan Saidi and his men from the Malay Regiment, who stood firm in defending our land. - (words by Shafiq Arifin, Sembawang West)

Heritage walk on the Battle of Pasir Panjang

I had a hard time searching for my badges and beret when I received a call from Mr Shafiq Arifin to attend the Remembrance Day ceremony at Kranji War Memorial, just before the Battle Tour that I will soon be guiding at Pasir Panjang with residents from Sembawang West, under Woodlands Galaxy. I honestly did not expect to wear these items again, as for years I was only familiar with the Number 4 uniform.

Sarafian Salleh

The red poppy worn on my left chest is a symbol of remembrance, inspired by the poem “In Flanders Fields”, where poppies grew over the battlefields after the war. I am just an ordinary person, but I feel an immense sense of pride every time I wear my military uniform, a reminder that I have served my nation.

#DutyHonorCountry #lestweforget #heritage #history #memorialservice #singapore #rememberanceday #SingaporeArmedForces #TaatSetia #YangPertamaDanUtama #ironranger #SingaporeArmedForces

The Johor Battery in Changi was a major British coastal defensse installation built in the late 1930s using funds donated by the Sultan of Johor. Equipped with three massive 15-inch “monster guns” capable of firing over 20 miles, it was meant to protect Singapore from naval attacks though two of the guns were later turned inland to slow the Japanese advance in Johor Bahru during the early weeks of 1942. 

The three massive 15-inch guns of the Johore Battery were indeed brought into action during the Japanese advance in February 1942 where the two of the guns had their traverse modified so they could fire landward at targets in Johor Bahru and across the Causeway. 

However, their overall effectiveness was limited. These coastal-defence guns were primarily designed to engage enemy ships, so they were supplied mostly with armor-piercing shells rather than high-explosive 'airburst' rounds better suited to land warfare. 

Additionally, the emplacement was orientated towards the sea and the fire-control systems were optimized for naval rather than land targets, making accurate strikes against a rapid moving land-based force much more difficult. 

Just before Singapore fell, the British destroyed the guns and sealed the underground tunnels to prevent their capture. Forgotten for decades, the tunnels were rediscovered in 1991, and the site was restored and opened to the public in 2002. Today, visitors can explore a replica gun, ammunition displays, and interactive exhibits that bring this hidden wartime history to life.

Sharing the story behind “The Nativity,” a mural painstakingly painted by POW internee Stanley Warren, a moving reminder of resilience and hope during the darkest days of the war. His murals were completed under difficult conditions of sickness, limited materials and hardships. With a message of universal love and forgiveness, they helped to uplift the spirits of the POWs and the sick when they sought refuge in the prison chapel.He survived the war and came back a few years later to restore the art to its former glory. 

A heartfelt thank you to Pasir Ris Elias CC for commissioning me to lead this historical tour, which spans the stories of the Prisoners of War in Changi, the Fall of Singapore, and the maritime struggles involving the Dutch and Portuguese who once fought for dominance in this region. In essence, Singapore was an island deeply coveted through the centuries, so strategically vital that the Japanese understood that controlling Singapore meant controlling the region’s trade routes, and perhaps even influencing the world beyond.

 

Telok Blangah: The Forgotten Bugis Anchorage of Ancient Singapore

By Sarafian Salleh
Author of Tuah Bugis – Chronicles of the Seafaring People of Singapore (2023)

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A Name that Hides an Older Story

The name Telok Blangah has long been accepted to mean the “Bay of the Pot.” This interpretation, repeated across articles and tourist guides, stems from the Malay word belanga, a clay pot used for cooking curry or stew. Indeed, when viewed from the sea, the bay’s curved coastline may resemble a giant cooking vessel.

Yet, behind this familiar explanation lies a deeper and more intriguing story. An old Berita Harian article hinted that Blangah may not be about pots at all, but rather a Bugis word related to anchorage - suggesting that the area could have been a maritime hub far older than the colonial town we know today.

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Reconsidering “Blangah” — From Pot to Port

In Malay, labuh means “to drop anchor,” and pelabuhan means “harbour” or “anchorage.” These words share roots with the Bugis–Makassar term labuang or mallabuang, which carry the same meaning. The phonetic resemblance between labuang and blangah is striking.

It is plausible that over centuries of speech and trade, mallabuang softened through local tongues into balangah or blangah. This linguistic shift is consistent with how maritime place names evolve across the Malay Archipelago, shaped by oral transmission, regional dialects, and foreign transcription.

If that is the case, Telok Blangah would translate not as “Bay of the Pot,” but as “Anchorage Bay.”

My discussion with fellow Bugis authors & academics on the meaning of Telok Belangah in 2019

An Ancient Anchorage Before Empire

Long before Raffles founded a trading post in 1819, the southern shores of Singapore were already frequented by seafarers. Historical records, from the Sejarah Melayu to Chinese and Arab navigators’ logs, describe Temasek as a thriving maritime node between the 13th and 14th centuries.

When Sang Nila Utama (Sri Tri Buana) is said to have arrived in 1299, his choice of anchoring at Telok Blangah would have been guided by its natural features — a sheltered bay, deep waters, and access to inland rivers. These were the same maritime criteria used for centuries by Malay and Bugis sailors when selecting ports of call.

In this sense, Telok Blangah was not a random landing site but a logical maritime choice — a protected harbour ideally suited for large sailing vessels. It may have functioned as an entrepôt, with early administrators such as nakhoda (ship captains), shahbandar (harbour masters), and temenggong (local wardens) overseeing trade and navigation.

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The Bugis Connection

Christian Pelras, in his seminal work The Bugis (1996), described how the Bugis and Makassar peoples from South Sulawesi expanded their maritime presence across the Malay world from the 17th century onwards. After the fall of Makassar to the Dutch in 1669, many Bugis fled to Riau, Selangor, and Johor  establishing coastal settlements, shipyards, and trading outposts.

By the late 18th century, Bugis navigators were already active throughout the Singapore Straits. When Raffles arrived, they were well-known for their trading fleets and sea networks stretching from Sulawesi to the Riau–Lingga Archipelago.

Thus, it is entirely possible that Bugis seafarers had already frequented or even settled at Telok Blangah before the British period. The very name Blangah, if derived from Bugis labuang, could be the last linguistic trace of their early anchorage on the island.

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Clues from the Coastline

Historical maps and colonial surveys reveal several telling clues. The area around modern Harbour Front and Kampong Bahru was historically known as Kampung Nakhoda, literally “Village of the Ship Captain.” Such names were never accidental. They reflected the occupations and status of their inhabitants.

The term nakhoda (from Arabic nakhuda, meaning shipmaster) was widely used among Malay and Bugis traders. Its presence near Telok Blangah strengthens the idea that the bay once hosted a maritime community led by captains and traders, not farmers or inland settlers.

Even in the 19th century, when Bugis traders officially settled along the Rochor River to form Kampong Bugis, many oral traditions still associated the southern coast with earlier Bugis movements. The sheltered bay and its access to the Singapore Strait made it an ideal anchorage for fleets arriving from the Riau and Selayar islands.

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Blangah as a “Matured Estate” of Ancient Temasek

To imagine Telok Blangah as a “matured estate” of ancient Singapura is not far-fetched. Like today’s modern port, it was probably a multi-ethnic maritime settlement, drawing traders, craftsmen, and sailors who lived by the rhythm of the sea.

Arab geographers referred to this region as part of the “islands of Zabag,” famed for gold and spices, while Chinese accounts mentioned Temasek’s bustling harbour. European navigators later confirmed the area’s natural depth and protection from monsoon winds.

The Bugis, being among the most skilled sailors of the archipelago, would have naturally recognised the strategic and navigational advantages of the bay. Their long familiarity with the currents, reefs, and seasonal winds could explain why their linguistic imprint >> Blangah >> remained embedded in the toponymy of Singapore.

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Reclaiming the Maritime Memory

Modern Singapore’s rapid urbanisation has reshaped the landscape, but the sea remains in the nation’s DNA. The name Telok Blangah is more than a geographic label. It is a living echo of the island’s maritime soul.

If we accept the Bugis origin of Blangah, then this place was not merely a poetic bay but a functional harbour, possibly one of the earliest Bugis settlements in Singapore which perhaps predates the arrival of Sang Nila Utama because when the Pelembang Prince arrived Temasek, there was already Telok Blangah as mentioned in Sejarah Melayu. The story invites us to look beyond colonial timelines and recognise the indigenous maritime layers that predate 1819, the networks of Orang Laut, Malays, and Bugis who made these waters home.

In this light, Telok Blangah stands not as a colonial afterthought, but as the original port of Singapura, shaped by centuries of seafaring knowledge, trade, and cultural exchange.

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References

• Pelras, C. (1996). The Bugis. Oxford: Blackwell Publishers.

• Andaya, L. Y. (1995). The Bugis-Makassar Diasporas. Journal of the Malaysian Branch of the Royal Asiatic Society, 68(1), 119–138.

• Sopher, D. E. (1965). The Sea Nomads: A Study of the Maritime Boat People of Southeast Asia. Singapore: National Museum.

• Turnbull, C. M. (2009). A History of Modern Singapore, 1819–2005. NUS Press.

• National Library Board Singapore. (n.d.). “Telok Blangah.” Singapore Infopedia.

• Salleh, S. (2023). Tuah Bugis – Chronicles of the Seafaring People of Singapore. Bugis Temasek Publishing.

Ayam Jantan Tanah Daeng

My first visit to Pulau Penyengat was in 2007, in the company of Pak Daing Zainal of Makam Radin Mas. At that time, the island, though beautiful, seemed in need of preservation and renewal. I believed then that Pulau Penyengat had the potential to serve as a focal point for heritage tourism and scholarship, providing a platform to rediscover the cultural and intellectual identity of the Malay world.

The Grand Mosque of the Sultan of Riau was the first sight that greeted us as we stepped off the jetty and onto the island. Its bright yellow and green walls stood out against the blue of the sky, almost as if announcing our arrival to Pulau Penyengat. The Grand Mosque of the Sultan of Riau (Indonesian: Masjid Raya Sultan Riau) stands proudly on Penyengat Island, just off the coast of Tanjung Pinang on Bintan Island, Indonesia. Built in 1844, this mosque is one of the most iconic landmarks of the Riau Islands and remains an important attraction for both visitors and pilgrims. With its striking yellow and green walls and its unique use of lime, sand, and egg whites as binding material, the mosque has stood the test of time as a living symbol of faith and resilience.

During my recent return, I observed significant transformation in how the island presents itself. Pulau Penyengat has emerged as a curated historical centre, inviting both visitors and researchers to re-examine the foundations of Malay identity and its contributions to regional history.

Contrary to the notion of being merely the site of Bugis settlement, Pulau Penyengat historically functioned as a centre of knowledge and culture. From the time of Raja Ali Haji, it has served as an intellectual anchor, shaping the Malay identity across Singapore, Malaysia, and Indonesia. Its legacy continues to remind us of the shared roots that define the uniqueness of Malay civilisation today.

I was sharing about Pulau Penyengat’s geopolitical story which can be traced back to the anthropological landscape of the Orang Laut who once made their homes along Sungei Carang, where their mastery of the seas and loyalty shaped the fortunes of rulers in the Johor-Riau world; over time.

This seafaring foundation gave way to a more strategic militarisation, most powerfully embodied in Raja Haji Fisabilillah’s establishment of a fire base at Bukit Kursi, a bold assertion of Bugis strength and defiance against Dutch encroachment, which not only guarded the heart of Riau but also announced the island’s role as a fulcrum of power in the region. 

From that martial origin, Penyengat grew into more than a fortress, becoming the beating cultural and intellectual centre of the Malay world, where figures like Raja Ali Haji anchored identity and thought, leaving a legacy that still ties its early seafaring roots, its Bugis heroism, and its flowering as a capital of ideas into one continuous arc of history.

Thank you Raje Farul and your friends, for guiding us.

Penyengat Island itself was once the royal seat of the Riau-Lingga Sultanate, a Malay kingdom that flourished during the 18th and 19th centuries. During this period, the rulers of Riau played a central role in navigating the political struggles of the Malay world, particularly in their encounters with European colonial powers. Though the island fell into decline after the sultanate dissolved in the early 20th century and remained abandoned for decades, efforts in recent years have restored much of its heritage, allowing visitors to reconnect with its glorious past.

Raja Ali Haji bin Raja Haji Ahmad

Among the treasures of Penyengat are the remains of the old palace, the royal tombs, and, most famously, the grave of Raja Ali Haji — a celebrated Malay scholar, historian, and poet. He is best remembered for writing Bustanu’s Salatin and Tuhfat al-Nafis, as well as compiling the first systematic grammar of the Malay language (Kitab Pengetahuan Bahasa) in 1850. His contributions ensured that Penyengat became not only a political centre but also a centre of intellectual and cultural life for the Malay world.

Today, the island stands as both a heritage site and a cultural landmark. The mosque is still in use, drawing worshippers and visitors alike, while the island itself tells a story of power, scholarship, and identity that continues to inspire Malays across the region.

Singapore Tourist Guide - Sarafian Salleh

Today, I’m overjoyed to share that I’ve renewed my Singapore Tourist Board license. The happiness I feel is just as fresh as it was three years ago, when I first passed my exams to earn it.

This renewal marks another three years of joy, responsibility, love, and heartfelt storytelling. Guiding has never been just a passion for me, it is a calling to share knowledge, history, and culture with sincerity and hope.

I look forward to continuing this journey, meeting new friends, and creating meaningful experiences together. Here’s to more stories, more laughter, and more discoveries ahead!

Thank you everyone who have always walked together with me.

Sukadana’s Warm Welcome and the Living Routes of Bugis Trade

My first taste of Kalimantan was in 1997, when I was sent to survey a tender barge at the Mahakam Delta, Balikpapan. I kept returning until around 2009, Samarinda, Banjarmasin, and elsewhere. Across Borneo I’ve worked in Miri, Bintulu, Lutong, Kuching in Sarawak, Kota Kinabalu, Labuan, and Brunei, mostly work, except Brunei where many of our menfolk “pay respects” in Temburong, if you know what I mean. Last year I spoke on Bugis trade in Pontianak; this year the invitation was to Sukadana. I remember when SilkAir flew direct to Pontianak, now it’s via Jakarta.

Sukadana sits on the south of Kalimantan. We ran up Sungai Kapuas in a 45-knot speedboat, normally five to six hours; the slow boat takes more than a day. It can take longer if either of the two big outboards clips a floating log or gets fouled by weeds, old fishing nets, or river garbage. 

The ride was scenic all the way, with a memorable lunch stop at Kubu. We stayed at Hotel Mahkota and from there plunged into cultural events, seminars, and warm social gatherings.

There was even karaoke at Pantai Datok…great fun. A friend in SG texted me after seeing my photos on Facebook: “Wahhh Tuah, you skipped our SG60 but became a guest at Indonesia’s Independence Day!” I was honoured to be invited by the Bupati (Governer) of Kayong Utara to witness the Hari Ulang Tahun ke-80.

The seminar went well. I enjoyed my airtime, sharing the trade networks linking Singapore, Sukadana, and the wider Nusantara. Many friends were the same good people from last year’s event in Sambas, and each session brought fresh insight, untold kingdoms, social cohesion, histories, anthropologies.

 My thanks to Mr. Natsir for organising and for inviting my wife and me, and to Mr. Jumadi Gading for being an excellent host. May Indonesia remain blessed and prosperous for its people, for the region, and for the world.

Assalamaualikum 

Pengalaman pertama saya di Kalimantan ialah pada tahun 1997, ketika saya ditugaskan meninjau sebuah Tender-Barge di Delta Mahakam, Balikpapan. Saya terus berulang-alik hingga sekitar 2009, ke Samarinda, Banjarmasin dan lain-lain. Di seluruh Borneo saya pernah bekerja di Miri, Bintulu, Lutong, Kuching di Sarawak, Kota Kinabalu, Labuan dan Brunei, kebanyakannya urusan kerja; kecuali Brunei, tempat ramai lelaki kita “bayar niat” di Temburong, kalau you faham maksud saya. 

Tahun lalu saya berkongsi tentang perdagangan Bugis di Pontianak; tahun ini pula jemputan ke Sukadana. Saya masih ingat ketika SilkAir terbang terus ke Pontianak; kini perlu melalui Jakarta.

Sukadana terletak di selatan Kalimantan. Kami menyusuri Sungai Kapuas dengan bot laju 45 knot, biasanya lima hingga enam jam; bot perlahan mengambil masa lebih daripada sehari. Perjalanan boleh menjadi lebih lama jika salah satu daripada dua enjin outboard terlanggar kayu hanyut atau tersangkut rumpai, jaring lama, atau sampah sungai.

 Pemandangannya indah sepanjang laluan, dengan persinggahan makan tengah hari yang mengesankan di Kubu. Kami menginap di Hotel Mahkota dan dari situ tenggelam dalam acara budaya, seminar dan pertemuan sosial yang mesra. Malah ada sesi karaoke di Pantai Datok, memang seronok. 

Seorang rakan di SG mengirim mesej selepas melihat foto di Facebook: “Wahhh Tuah, kamu tak hadir SG60 kita tetapi jadi tetamu pada Hari Kemerdekaan Indonesia!” Saya berasa sangat dihormati apabila dijemput oleh Bupati (ketua daerah) Kayong Utara untuk menyaksikan Hari Ulang Tahun ke-80.

Seminar berlangsung dengan baik. Saya benar-benar menikmati masa di pentas, berkongsi tentang jaringan perdagangan yang menghubungkan Singapura, Sukadana dan Nusantara yang lebih luas. Ramai rakan ialah orang baik yang sama dari acara tahun lalu di Sambas, dan setiap sesi membawa ilmu pembuka minda, tentang kerajaan-kerajaan yang jarang diceritakan, jalinan sosial, sejarah dan antropologi. 

Terima kasih kepada Encik Natsir kerana menganjurkan serta menjemput saya dan isteri, dan kepada Encik Jumadi Gading yang menjadi tuan rumah dengan layanan yang baik. Semoga Indonesia sentiasa diberkati dan makmur demi rakyatnya, rantau ini dan dunia.

Honorable Gifts and Appreciations from the Governor and friends.

 

 

 In celebration of National Day, I continued my long-standing tradition of leading a heritage walk for friends and members of the public, a journey through Singapore’s remarkable evolution, from the bustling age of sail to the kampong-spirit we shared during the trials of Covid.

The walk began at Fort Canning MRT station, where a facade replica of Panggong Negara stood proudly, screaming “Fort Canning!” greeted us. Standing there, I couldn’t resist sharing my personal memories of the Van Cleef Aquarium, once beloved landmarks that still hold a nostalgic feel in my heart. I also used to swim regularly at River Valley Swimming pool during my Poly days too!

From that starting point, our steps followed the echoes of history;  from the events in Sejarah Melayu to Raffles, through the trials of the Second World War, the winds of decolonization, moments of unrest, and the visionary leadership of Mr Lee Kuan Yew... leading to the milestones that shaped our independence and the modern nation we take pride in today. It was more than just a walk; it was a celebration of heritage, resilience, and the Singapore spirit. 

Thank you Zaili Mohama Din for the photos. Thank you to everyone who joined and made this National Day walk both memorable and meaningful.

Happy National Day friends. 

Happy National Day everyone. 

Happy National Day Singapore. 

Majulah Singapura!

Ghosts of the Arts House 

“At night, the river hushes and this old house keeps its whispers. Built in 1827 as a residence but used as a courthouse, these rooms once heard verdicts, oaths and the scrape of boots on tiled floors. Some staff swear they’ve felt a sudden chill along the corridor by the old chamber door, or faint footsteps after closing, perhaps only the building settling, perhaps not.

I have always felt a deep connection whenever I speak about the Arts House. Its history is inseparable from the early story of modern Singapore, taking me back to the time of Temenggong Abdul Rahman.

Around 1812, Temenggong Abdul Rahman established his first Istana along the Singapore River. From there, he managed his trading activities, working closely with Bugis, orang laut, and the Chinese communities who lived along the riverbanks. These communities along the Singapore River helped forge local and regional maritime trade, laying the economic foundations of Singapore’s growth.

Temenggong Abdul Rahman remained there until the arrival of Stamford Raffles on 28 January 1819. When Raffles landed, he stepped ashore at the jetty right in front of the Istana. Mistaking Temenggong Abdul Rahman for the Sultan of Singapore, Raffles was corrected: the Temenggong explained that he was not the Sultan, and that the rightful heir was Sultan Hussein.

On 6 February 1819, a treaty of friendship was signed between Raffles, Sultan Hussein, and Temenggong Abdul Rahman, marking a pivotal moment in Singapore’s history. Over time, the site where the Istana once stood came into Raffles’ possession. The plaque outside the Arts House still records that Raffles purchased the land from Temenggong Abdul Rahman and converted it into the Assembly House. The Temenggong relocated to Telok Blangah, where the Bugis settlement was based.

The Arts House today, then the Old Parliament House had witnessed many defining moments in Singapore’s political journey. Here, Chief Minister David Marshall pressed for internal self-government, though his 1956 Merdeka Mission to London failed and he resigned. In 1957, his successor Lim Yew Hock led successful negotiations in London that produced the State of Singapore Constitution (1958) and paved the way for internal self-government in 1959. The Legislative Assembly that met in this building was central to the local debates surrounding these changes.

It was also here that Singapore’s national symbols were unveiled: the national flag, the pledge, and the national anthem Majulah Singapura. From 1955 to 1999, the building now called The Arts House served as Singapore’s legislature, first the Legislative Assembly, then Parliament before the move to the new Parliament House.

For me, the Arts House is not just a building, it is a living monument. Standing there, you are standing where history unfolded; where decisions were made that shaped Singapore into the independent nation it is today. Anyone who knows its story, I believe, will feel the same deep pride I do each time they walk through its doors.

Happy National Day Singapore

9th August 2025